gheffo
Gold Member
Up for sale is a horological icon: the Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196J in yellow gold. The 5196 is the direct descendant of the legendary Ref. 96 from 1932. While the original was a diminutive 31mm, this modern iteration is perfectly proportioned at 37mm diameter and a razor-thin 8mm height. I’ll admit: I initially thought the 5196 was boring before owning it. After some time with it, I realized its simplicity is actually its strength - it is the blueprint for the modern dress watch. The round case, dauphine hands, integrated straight lugs, elegant applied indices, and the small seconds at 6 o'clock are elements that the Calatrava pioneered and that we take for granted today. As Watchfinder noted, it is "the most copied watch design ever." To own a 5196 is to own the original rulebook of dress horology. It dresses up for a suit, but I’ve found it also looks incredible dressed down on the included gold sailcloth strap or blue alcantara strap.
The Details:
The Details:
- Box & Papers: This is a complete Canadian collector’s set from Brinkhaus (Alberta) with original box (outer and inner) and papers (dated Dec. 2017), and manufacture booklets.
- Accessories: This set includes the original Patek pin buckle, 3 OEM Patek straps (Mahogany, Brown, Black; $2,300+ value) and 3 Delugs straps (Green Ostrich, Blue Alcantara, Gold Sailcloth; $550+ value).
- Condition: The case appears unpolished with sharp lugs and crisp hallmarks. There are minor hairline scratches on the bezel and lugs consistent with careful wear, which I have captured under harsh lighting in the condition photos. It's running well and keeping excellent time.
- Price: $24,000 CAD preferred F2F in Toronto. Plenty of feedback on CWC under "gheffo." Buy with confidence.
- Photos: See below. The first 9 shots below were taken over the past few months to show the watch’s beauty and versatility. The remaining photos were taken Dec 29, 2025, specifically to show the current condition of the watch. For bonus photos (of this watch from the previous owner) and strap combinations refer to this Delugs strap guide (link here).